Monday, May 10, 2010

Could Korean Rice Balls be the next Pinkberry?


Most certainly not. For one thing, Pinkberry's popularity seems to be waning. Also, I love a rice ball as much as the next Famima addict, but these Korean fillings in rice balls are just ok. So why am I reviewing them? Because of their novelty. I usually can't get enough of these rice and seaweed snacks often filled with goodies like tuna mayo or kombu seaweed that’s been cooked in a soy sauce-based sauce until tender and salty.

The ones I recently found at a Korean market were filled with spicy beef, Korean BBQ and kimchi BBQ. The products were dubbed "triangular kimbab," named after the Korean-style seaweed rolls usually filled with beef, egg, carrot and spinach (another snack/meal I absolutely love). Ok, the flavors weren't all that, unfortunately, but they're acceptable if you were to crave some kick. The spicy beef and kimchi BBQ were both plenty spicy if not particularly memorable.




The Korean BBQ filling was just ground beef that had been purportedly marinated in Korean BBQ sauce but it tasted pretty bland and quality of the beef wasn't great. Just a hint of saltiness and sweetness without much flavor.

There is a careful method to assembling this great invention without touching the seaweed with your hands for hygienic reasons.

These things also keep pretty well so I usually don't refrigerate them and that way, avoid tough, cold rice and filling. They don't microwave well either so it's best to eat them before having to throw them in the fridge.


I'm pretty sure Koreans traditionally served rice balls without seaweed but I could be wrong. My memories of rice balls were literally spheres (not triangular) stuffed with ground beef and some finely minced carrots and such, with rice that had been flavored with salt, sesame seeds and a hint of sesame oil.

Somebody needs to come up with better alternatives to these babies, especially for those who don't have Famima at their door step or want something more than just tuna mayo as their filling.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Dinos' Burgers: Garlic and Chicken Meet Grill



Here's a very quick one to tout one of my favorite grilled chicken joints -- Dino's Chicken and Burgers. I didn't realize it was a franchise but its website says it just opened a location in Pomona and already has one in Azusa. What makes Dino's chicken better than others? For one, its marinade has a good kick to it, and is nice and garlicky. The chicken is also grilled to charred perfection on the outside while retaining its juices on the inside. But the absolute kicker are the french fries underneath the chicken. They taste like they were freshly cut and fried that day and the garlicky juice that the man behind the counter pours over the fries just before handing you the box of beautifully pinkish (almost like tandoori) chicken pieces on a bed of delicious fries soaking in even more delicious garlic juice.




Did I mention it's a ridiculous steal at about $5 for 2-3 pieces of chicken, fries, cole slaw and tortillas? Sure, the cole slaw or tortillas are not much to write home about, but it's definitely one of the best deals in town.

That said, I wouldn't recommend the namesake burger, although I've only been to the Koreatown location on Pico just west of Vermont.

It's best to do takeout as the ambiance isn't much but there is merit in being able to dive right into devouring the fresh off the grill chicken.

For this westsider, Zankou Chicken still reigns supreme in the bone-in chicken category (and Sunnin Cafe for the ever-so-juicy chicken kebab category) in this side of town, but well worth a visit when you're in that area.

Sunday, April 25, 2010

My so-called Life as a Food Paparazzi and Top Burger Showdown: Rustic Canyon vs. Houston's



I'm a bit miffed at how food bloggers and camera-happy food lovers are given a bad wrap in recent NYT and LAT articles. I think many restaurateurs are feeling the heat about the prospect of having anybody be critics and potentially influence their business. I don't see how taking pictures of the food hampers their work or craft in any way. Just because we take pictures of the food doesn't mean we don't appreciate the food and let it go cold before consuming. Get used to the scrutiny, peeps.

Speaking of pictures, some fancier restaurants dim their lights so low it's hard to shoot a good picture of the food anyway.

Which brings me to the point of my post. I found a burger at Rustic Canyon that's on par with my favorite burger in LA. That's remarkable considering how loyal I've been to the California Burger at Houston's. It's been unbeatable until I tasted the burger at RC. I wouldn't go as far as saying it was better, but it was equally good.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to shoot images of the venerable RC burger because it was far too dark and the flash messes up the photo. I'm posting a photo courtesy of Feast. But I can vouch for the excellence of this fancy burger.


Like the Houston's burger, it had a fantastic patty that was grainy enough and seasoned and cooked perfectly (medium rare). The bun, oh, the bun. I'm not sure if RC's famous pastry chef makes the buns too (RC's owner also owns Huckleberry, a bakery across the street known for its maple bacon biscuits that I find mediocre) but the bun was perfect -- soft and fresh but also firm enough to be able withstand the heavy patty and all the works. Houston's has a sesame bun but this one was just as good.

The works: I like Houston's better with arugula, avocado, red onions and American cheese with a side of mustard and barbecue sauce. The RC burger pairs the Niman Ranch beef patty with Gruyere cheese, caramelized onions, pickles and an herb remoulade.

The fries: RC's is better but not by much. Houston's needs some work with the shoestring fries, which I was never a fan of. And both should offer sweet potato fries, which I'm particular to. For a fancy place, I was telling my dinner companion that the fries looked and tasted more like diner fries. Diner fries should be served at diners.

Oh, and RC didn't have barbecue sauce, which I usually like to dab on my bloody burger before sinking my teeth into it. But I was impressed to find they instead had a homemade Sriracha sauce, death ketchup itself, which was a good substitute.

Some of you may know my obsession with burgers -- so much that I'm part of a burger club that regularly samples burgers around town and rates them. Check out my burger roundup.

On that note, I've always considered the Father's Office burger highly overrated, but last night I tried it again and it was better than my first time. Although I'm still no big fan, I'd say it's on par with Umami Burger, which is not too shabby. Just not the best by any stretch.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Euro Pane: Best Croissant it is Not


I admit I had high expectations for Europane, the venerable bakery in Pasadena whose chocolate croissants sell out so quickly I haven't yet sunk my teeth into one. Maybe I should defer my review until then, but I have to say, if the chocolate croissants are anything like its regular croissants that I have tried, I haven't been impressed. Breadbar has a far superior croissant. It wasn't as flaky or buttery and just didn't do the trick. Europane's quiche was no contest to Tartine Bakery in San Francisco, which is as delicious as it is decadent. The macademia nut tart was too hard and not seasoned right. Its sandwiches sounded good on paper -- roast beef with horseradish sauce on cranberry walnut bread. The bread was fantastic -- fresh and flavorful. The sandwich? Not so much. Meat was hard to bite into because of all these connective tissues and it was a bit bland. Still, Europane seems to be doing something right to expand to an Old Town location that's decidedly bigger. I just need more flavor that lives up to its hype.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Sushi Zo: Excellent But Too Sauce-Happy


I'm usually very loyal to my fave sushi joint in LA (Hiko Sushi), but I had to taste for myself the hype that Sushi Zo got in message boards galore. The sushi was excellent. The chef was also known to be a rude and forceful sushi chef, in the vain of the Nozawa "trust me" chef. Service was definitely rude but the sushi made it bearable. The best was squid sashimi cut in strips topped with uni. The combination of silky and chewy strips of squid with creamy, delicious uni was amazing.


The fish was top quality but the only gripe besides the service and arrogance of the chef was the over-saucing of fish that was so fresh it would have been perfectly fine without sauce of any kind. This yellowtail was an exception that only had minced yuzu and some rock salt as a topping.

Toro, or fatty tuna, is usually my favorite sushi but he bathed the toro in some soy sauce-based concoction that I felt masked the truly fresh flavor of the fish.

Another case in point was the sea bass, which was also topped with some kind of soy sauce with minced garlic and green onions. I thought the fresh could have easily stood on its own.

The time when I appreciated the sauce-happiness was the monkfish liver, which was deliciously topped with some fishegg sauce with green onions.


I must disclose that my favorite sushi joint, Hiko Sushi, also has a chef that people think is too arrogant and rude. But I'm biased, because I love me my Shinji-san (at Hiko) and he's never rude to me (he even accomodates my request of no wasabi in the sushi -- imagine that!).

Maybe this Zo guy is nicer to other regulars and he may have gotten ticked off when I asked him for his recommendations on what's most fresh. His answer: Everything is fresh. True, Shinji-san would have said the same thing and may have even added indignantly, "Stupid question." But Chef Zo was so belligerent in his ways that it really turns off the customer. What's with this sushi dictatorship trend?

Sushi Zo is worth trying but not sure it will replace my Hiko anytime soon.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Jaragua: Great Pupusas, Curtido and Fried Yucca


Another great value joint is Jaragua, a no-frills Salvadoran restaurant in Koreatown with great service and even better food. Granted, it's hard not to like an appetizer sampler that includes beautifully golden fried plaintains, a soft and plumb fried empanada, freshly fried thin plaintain chips and yucca fried to perfection topped with curtido, a spicy and crunchy slaw made out of cabbage, onions and carrots.


This could feed at least three people. Throw in a pupusa or two, which are wonderful corn pancakes stuffed with super stringy cheese, beans or other goodies, and you've got a hearty meal, if not necessarily a healthy one.

The curtido slaw is a great refreshing accompaniment to the pupusas that balances out the slight heaviness from the cheese. I personally can't get enough of curtido.

Check out the cheese oozing out of the pupusa to the left. That's the beauty of a fresh-off-the-griddle pupusa that must be consumed quickly or risk battling with stringy cheese that tastes rubbery and congealed.

I have to admit, I couldn't finish a pupusa in one sitting because I find the cheese too heavy, even with a heap of slaw at every bite. But not to worry. It tastes pretty good when you either microwave or heat it up in a toaster oven at home.

Jaragua also serves tamales, but I wasn't crazy about them. They were too doughy for my taste. I usually like the ones wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks like the Mexican ones because they usually have less corn masa and I've always liked the addition of the olive.

The service is excellent and I wouldn't hesitate to return for more. Fried yucca! Fried plaintains! Fried empanadas! I can't help myself.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Samosa House: Vegetarian Indian at Great Value

I've had some pretty great eats lately, but nothing excites me more than a cheap find that's delicious and easy on the wallet. What's not to like? Welcome to Samosa House in Culver City.

My dining partner and I went here as a backup plan but thank god the other restaurant was overbooked! It's a vegetarian/vegan joint but as long as you avoid the fake meat and fish items, it's pretty good, especially for that money. We got the $7.99 combo special, which includes a choice of any three mains, rice (brown or white), raita, the yummy yogurt with veggies, and naan (plain or garlic).


If that isn't the greatest deal on earth, not sure what is. Ok, I considered my other Indian fare fave, Hurry Curry on Venice, that has a great $12.99 special for two that includes two meat entrees, plus four veggie entrees, rice for two and naan for two.

My favorites were cauliflower that had a sauce like that of tikka masala, potato curry and the jackfruit that was recommended on message boards. The jackfruit had a very interesting texture like that of shredded chicken (it really did almost taste like chicken). The eggplant and spinach dishes were all on mild side.

Both the white and brown basmati rice were freshly made and fluffy and the garlic naan was well-made and tasted as if fresh from the oven.

One thing we noticed was that the restaurant seems to use less ghee or oil when cooking, which made the usually fairly heavy Indian fare lighter and a tad more guilt-free. But we liked that it did it in a way that didn't seem to compromise on flavor.

The place's namesake, the samosas, were very good -- piping hot, super crispy with a delicious potato filling. Dab some of that cilantro chutney over it for some kick and you have one of my favorite snacks/appetizers in the world.

The sitting area was a lot cleaner and nicer than Hurry Curry minus the massive flat screens blazing Bollywood movies.

The place also doubles as a market for Indian spices and chutneys in a jar. It's a great place to browse if you're early for a lunch meeting. Depending on how ambitious a cook you are, you can pick up ready-made curries and sauces or get all the raw spices if you want to make it from scratch. If nothing else you can pick up some affordable cardamom seeds to grind into your chai.

I will definitely return to Samosa House as a go-to place for well-made and affordable Indian food. It's quick, it's cheap and it's good.